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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.